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Petit Mouton 2012
RP 90 HK$ 1,750 |
The 2012 Le Petit Mouton de Rothschild (79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc) shows loads of charcoal, burning embers, a nice hint of dark chocolate and blackcurrants. It is fleshy and medium-bodied, with up-front fruit and density. This second wine of Mouton has certainly gone from strength to strength under the administration of Philippe Dhalluin. Drink it over the next 15-20 years.
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Petit Mouton 2014
RP 90-92 HK$ 1,800 |
| The Le Petit Mouton 2014 is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Merlot, a very high percentage of the former, partly due to the higher quality of Merlot that predicated “promotion” into the Grand Vin. It has an intense pencil shaving nose that does not hold back. If you don’t like Cabernet Sauvignon, don’t come near. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, grainy tannin on the entry. There is part of me wishing that there was some fleshy Merlot to alleviate some of the austerity coming through on the salty finish, though that dominance of Cabernet lends it a rather “old school” feel that I appreciate. Drink this not so small deuxième vin with a Cohiba! (N.B. Unlike the Grand Vin, in the second week the wine was showing a little more succulence on the finish and my scores takes account of this.) |
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Pavillon Rouge du Margaux 2012
RP 90+ HK$ 1,400 |
| The second wine of Margaux, the Pavillon Rouge (63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot), exhibits more structure and masculinity than one normally expects. It has a deep ruby/purple color, nice floral and blackcurrant notes, some spice box, moderate tannin and medium body. This is a Pavillon Rouge that should admirably stand the test of time for 15-20 years. Its impressively long finish adds to its appeal and value. This wine will actually benefit from several years of bottle age and keep for 20 years. |
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Pavillon Rouge du Margaux 2014
RP 89-91 HK$ 1,400 |
| The Pavillon Rouge de Margaux 2014 is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, which Paul Pontallier remarked is almost the same as the grand vin 20 years ago. The nose needs time to coalesce in the glass – a little disjointed at first, though it “finds its groove” and offers ripe blackberry and boysenberry fruits, perhaps richer than I was anticipating. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy, almost corpulent opening: a mixture of red and black fruit and a pinch of white pepper. There is good weight in the mouth, quite linear with a nicely controlled, quite mineral-rich finish. This is a very fine Pavillon Rouge ’14 that will probably need three or four years in bottle. |
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Carruades de Lafite 2007
RP 90 HK$ 2,700 |
| The second wine, the 2007 Carraudes de Lafite, is nearly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A sleeper of the vintage, it offers sexy, ripe berry fruit intermixed with hints of cedarwood, forest floor, and underbrush. This plump, corpulent, fruity effort reveals a velvety texture as well as a lush finish. Enjoy it over the next 8-10 years. |
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Carruades de Lafite 2010
RP 94 HK$ 2,250 |
| Another brilliant second wine, the 2010 Carruades de Lafite (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42.5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot) is elegant and amazing for a second wine from Lafite. “Carruades de Lafite” is now engraved in the bottle to prevent unscrupulous sommeliers and merchants from trying to pass it off as Lafite Rothschild. The wine displays much of the same lead pencil, charcoal and black currant notes of its bigger sister, although it is forward, precocious and far less structured than the grand vin. Nevertheless, this wine, which can be drunk now, will cellar beautifully for at least 20-25 more years. |
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Petit Cheval 2006
RP 89 HK$ 1,520 |
| One of the stronger second wines I have tasted from manager/winemaker, Pierre Lurton, the 2006 Le Petit Cheval exhibits a dark ruby hue along with sweet red and black fruit notes intermixed with underbrush, forest floor, and licorice characteristics. This is a seductive second wine that cascades over the palate with no hard edges. Enjoy it over the next 6-7 years. |
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Clarence de Haut Brion 2012
RP 90 HK$ 750 |
| A wonderfully expansive, velvety textured, rich, full-bodied mouthfeel, are super and very impressive in the 2012 Le Clarence de Haut Brion. This is far higher quality than what most people would consider a second wine, even when coming from a first-growth chateau. Mulberry, spice box and expansive, rich flavors backed up by velvety tannins characterize this medium to full-bodied beautiful wine to drink now and over the next 15-20 years. Bravo. |
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